從西方視角呈現中國時尚美 (2019.2)

介紹:

2019年1月在米蘭的國際時裝周上,我們在一本特刊雜誌上看到了一整組在中國福建拍攝的中式風格服裝的時尚大片,說實話,第一感覺除了震撼還有意外。照片上的服裝和風景名勝都不是外國人所熟悉的,到底什麼人,為什麼拍攝這些照片,我們帶着好奇和激動的心情,聯繫了此次拍攝的攝影師MOJA,才得知他是法國戛納電影節的官方合作夥伴、有着強烈個人攝影風格的著名人像攝影師,讓我們一起瞭解一下他為何做了此次的拍攝。

Introduction:

During Milan Fashion Week in January 2019, we came across a magazine featuring fashion photography series shot in Fujian, China, presenting Chinese fashion, particularly the traditional style costumes. To be honest, my first reaction was shocked and a bit surprised. The costumes and the scenic locations in the photos are not familiar to foreigners. Who created these images? Why were these images created? Having lots of questions in mind, we contacted photographer MOJA with curiosity and excitement, only to know that he is a fashion and beauty photographer recognized by his signature photography style, and one of the official partners and photographers of Cannes Film Festival in France. Let’s hear more insights about this photo series.

從西方視角呈現中國時尚美 (2019.2)

鏡報:您好MOJA先生,可以向我們中國的讀者做一個簡單的自我介紹嗎?

The Mirror: Hello Mr. MOJA, could you introduce yourself to our Chinese readers?

MOJA:您好,我是一個人像攝影師,我熱愛電影、熱愛攝影。我很幸運,長年和戛納電影節合作,讓我總是可以第一時間從電影的角度瞭解到時尚和文化的關係,尤其是我不斷思考如何通過攝影來表現時尚和文化之間的關係。

MOJA: Hello, I’m a fashion and beauty photographer. I love cinema and photography. I feel very fortunate to have established a long-term working relationship with Cannes Film Festival. It allows me to get first hand updates and to understand the relationship between fashion and culture from the perspective of film. In particular, I’m constantly pondering how to express the relationship between fashion and culture through photography.

鏡報:您關注的時尚和文化的角度是什麼?

The Mirror: What is your perspective on fashion and culture?

MOJA:我很關注跨文化的時尚。這可能和我的和人成長經歷相關,我很感謝剛才您沒有問我是哪裡人,每次有人問我這個問題,我的心情五味成雜。我出生的國家現在已經不存在了,現在是剛果共和國,我9歲去了意大利生活,成年後又去了法國、比利時這些國家,我說非洲土著語、意大利語、法語、英語、盧森堡語,可是我無法回答我是哪國人。或許是這種成長經歷,讓我總是希望可以在我的照片中用非常有強烈對比性的跨文化的符號來傳遞時尚和文化背後的故事。

MOJA: I pay close attention to cross-cultural fashion. This may be related to my personal experience growing up. I am very grateful to you for not asking me where I am from. Every time someone asks me this question, I got a mixed feeling. The country where I was born no longer exists. Now it is the Republic of Congo. I moved to Italy at the age of 9. When I grew up, I moved to France, Belgium and other countries. I speak native African languages, Italian, French, English, and Luxembourgish, but I can’t answer which country I am from. Perhaps because of my experiences growing up, I always hope that the stories behind fashion and culture can be conveyed in my photos with very contrasting cross-cultural symbols.

鏡報:您何會選擇福建來進行這場國際時尚大片的拍攝呢?

The Mirror: Why did you choose Fujian for this photoshoot?

MOJA:我對中國茶很好奇,我聽說茶是從福建,做為海上絲綢之路的起點,傳到了歐洲。我打開歐洲賣的中國旅遊攻略,大部分情況都是厚厚的攻略,福建的介紹只有1-2頁。雖然當時我從沒有去過福建,但我相信福建有茶,它的價值一定不止2頁。我就聯繫我中國的合作夥伴前往中國福建考察,看看哪些地方文化是可以通過我的鏡頭,讓更多西方人看到低調的福建。令我很欣喜的是這次所拍攝的照片在歐洲得到了很好的回饋,所有照片都將在今年法國戛納電影節期間展出,我也不斷接到歐洲多家著名時尚、生活類媒體的刊載邀約,我希望這只是一個開始,未來我有機會去中國進行更多的拍攝。

MOJA: I’m curious about Chinese tea. I heard that tea originated from Fujian, the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road, and then spread to Europe. I checked some China Travel Guides sold in Europe. Most of them are very thick guides with only 1-2 pages on Fujian. Although I had never been to Fujian at the time, I believed that there is tea in Fujian, and it must worth more than two pages. I contacted my Chinese partner for a visit in Fujian to see which local cultures can be shown through my lens, and to show the low-key Fujian to Westerners. I am very pleased that the photos taken this time have received good feedback in Europe. The photos will be exhibited during this year’s Cannes Film Festival in France. I have also been approached by major fashion and lifestyle magazines in Europe. I hope this is just the beginning, and I will have more opportunities to shoot in China in the future.

從西方視角呈現中國時尚美 (2019.2)

鏡報:我看到您的照片選擇了福建福州與漳州地區,這個選擇有什麼含義嗎?

The Mirror: I saw that you chose to set the photoshoot in Fujian Fuzhou and Zhangzhou. What does this choice mean?

MOJA:中國在我眼中一直是一個家族文化、根文化很重的國家,三坊七巷和土樓都從不同角度體現了中國的家文化,我希望這些文化可以通過時尚大片的拍攝展示出來。為此,我在拍攝現場使用了許多含有中國文化象徵的符號,不僅是展示時尚之美,還要做很多的故事敘述,尤其是服裝穿著者——人的故事,通過這樣的敘述再加上燈光、色彩和構圖,產生和觀眾的共鳴。我們還選擇了西禪寺、西湖公園和鼓山摩崖等文化重地,結合了我從中國傳說故事中獲取的靈感來進行腳本創作。其中一些故事和我們在西方所熟知的民間故事是非常相似的:如《梁祝》與《羅密歐與茱麗葉》。我希望在向歐洲人推廣福建的同時也可以學習更多的中國文化並與大家分享。當然,做到這個,我需要中國人的幫助。

MOJA: China has always been a country with a strong family culture and the culture of roots. Sanfangqixiang and Tulou both reflects China’s family culture with their own characteristics. I hope that these can be shown through this fashion series. For this reason, I embedded many symbols of Chinese culture in the shooting sets, not only to show the beauty of fashion but also to tell stories, stories of people. Bringing in particular lighting, color and composition, we create narratives that resonates with the audience. We also chose cultural sites such as Xichan Temple, West Lake Park and Gushan Cliff, in connection with the inspirations we drew from the tales of Chinese legends. Some of these stories are very similar to the folklores we know in the West, such as “Liang Zhu” and “Romeo and Juliet”. I hope that while promoting Fujian in Europe, I can also share and get to know more about the Chinese culture. Of course, to do this, I need the help of the Chinese.

從西方視角呈現中國時尚美 (2019.2)

鏡報:這是您第一次來中國拍攝嗎?有什麼事令您印象深刻嗎?

The Mirror: Is this the first time you organized a photoshoot in China? Is there anything that impresses you?

MOJA:這是我第一次來中國拍攝。我總是很自豪的和我的朋友們說,我沒有去過北京、上海,但我來過福建(笑)。最讓我印象深刻的事不得不說是我中國的合作夥伴,我在全世界各地進行拍攝,從來沒有一個國家的人像我中國的合作夥伴香港藍星一樣,可以這樣高效、開放地共事。我從歐洲帶了一個由14個專業人才組成的團隊(沒有一個人會說中文)來到中國,我們買了133箱的拍攝道具,扛着上百公斤重的攝影器材,100多頁的拍攝腳本的本土化融合等等。可以說這是我職業生涯中非常重要的一次拍攝。還有很觸動我的事情就是看到中國共事團隊中的人是如此開放和包容,給了我很愉快的工作體驗,所以我想借此機會感謝每一位參與拍攝的人。

MOJA: It’s the first time I’ve come to China for photoshoot. I am also always very proud to tell my friends that I have not been to Beijing or Shanghai, but I have been to Fujian (laugh). The thing that impressed me the most was that I have a great partner in China. I have done photoshoots in different countries around the world. Our partner Bluestellar is one of the most efficient and open partners we’ve ever worked with. I brought a team of 14 professionals from Europe (no one speaks Chinese). We bought 133 boxes of shooting props, carried hundreds of kilos of photography equipment and shot more than 100 pages of script. I can say that this is one of the most important works in my career. One thing that touched me very much was the openness and the inclusiveness of the Chinese team, which gave me a very pleasant working experience. I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who participated in the shooting.

從西方視角呈現中國時尚美 (2019.2)

鏡報:您下一站的拍攝地點是哪裡呢?

The Mirror: What’s your next shooting location?

MOJA:毛利坦尼亞的綠洲,和不為世人所瞭解的遊牧民族圖瓦雷克族人(沙漠中的藍人)一起拍攝。

MOJA: The oasis in Mauritania, and the Tuareg people (the “blue men” in the desert) who are probably rarely known to the rest of the world.

鏡報:感謝您抽時間接受我們的採訪,祝您非洲拍攝順利,也期待您未來更多會有更多和中國相關的時尚文化大片。

The Mirror: Thank you for taking the time speaking with us, I wish you a successful photoshoot in Africa, and look forward to seeing more and more Chinese fashion and cultural photographs in the future.

MOJA:謝謝您的鼓勵。

MOJA: Thank you for the kind words.

此次在福建的拍攝,MOJA 用他簽名性的拍攝風格:以特殊的光影方式點亮圖片中心角色,給觀眾一種人物自帶光芒的視覺印象。此次MOJA與東方服裝設計師的碰撞不僅僅是一場服裝拍攝之旅,更是一次藝術創作,MOJA 希望用西方人的視角去呈現中國之美,向西方傳達中國當下的時尚品味與內涵。他通過點亮中國傳統中映射中國蓬勃的現代化發展,因為他深信這種發展與中國悠久的文化歷史基墊和當代新興創作者的支持是緊密相關的。

For the photoshoot in Fujian, MOJA imbibes the characters with a particular light, which is his trademark and gives spectator the impression that the light emanates from them. The collaboration between MOJA and Chinese fashion designers is not only a photo shooting trip, but also an artistic collaboration. MOJA hopes to present the beauty of China from a Western perspective, and to communicate the current state of fashion in China to the Western audience. Through highlighting the magnificence of Chinese traditions, MOJA shows the rapid growing modernity of China, because he believes that the new development is strongly supported by the long history of culture and the country’s contemporary creators.

(文章中使用圖片來自於意大利Glamour Affair雜誌的採訪報道)

(Image Source: Glamour Affair Magazine)

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